The Flavors of Betawi Cuisine

Betawi (Batavian) men are generally picky eaters. They can distinguish flavors and do not like fast food. As a result, the women are required to be great cooks in the kitchen, for many generations.

In the old days, the infiltration of Chinese, Arab, and India cultures received warm welcome in Betawi community because of similar tastes they share, which use various spices. An exception is the alligator bread, which was originally made using cassava. The arrival of Europeans had helped introduce the bread, and now the recipe has been modified so it is easier to make.

“Still, the main theme of Betawi food is that we can even taste the aroma. Besides, it is usually braised or cooked in herbed broth with coconut milk,” said Ridwan Saidi, a cultural figure, while having a nostalgic meal of his hometown.

However, the transformation of Jakarta’s appearance as a consequence of rapid development, incoming streams of urban population, and the complexity to manage them, have all marginalized the typical Betawi menu. More Betawi women are complaining when it comes to cooking traditional food. Maslah (45) and Supeni (53), for instance, whined when they had to make geplak, cookies made of rice flour, sugar and coconut, although the recipe is fairly easy to make. These cookies are often served in celebrations.

“But it is hard to make them. We should mix the ingredients instantly after we roast them, while the batter is still hot. If we wait any longer, then it would be burak, it would not stick,” Maslah explained.

Bakers of dodol betawi, or sweet sticky cake, do face the same problem. You need to be extra patient to mix the dough in a huge crock for hours. But this sweet confectionery has a better fate. You can always find dodol makers in many Betawi communities. Let’s say Dodol Mak Ai at Setu Babakan in South Jakarta, Dodol Bu Mamas in Condet, East Jakarta, or Dodol Tiga Macan Rogaye in Balekambang, also in East Jakarta.

Regrettably, most Betawi natives under 30 are not familiar even with the names of some of their ancestors’ cuisine. Just ask them about sayur besan, literally “the in-laws’ dish”, they would probably reply with “What kind of food is that?” Below are two examples of the nearly extinct Betawi cuisine.

Just forget the lofty dreams that they will make it globally. What is more important is that they will not vanish without a trace. Distinct from other dishes, this menu has its own characteristic, a representation of the attitude of Betawi personality